Food

Like a lokal

May 6, 2020

I keep seeing pictures of the lovely Lokal Hotel in Philadelphia, where “invisible service” (from automated coded check-ins to in room iPads), laundry facilities, and oat milk in the fridge, make it feel like home away from home. The six apartments are designed by Jersey Ice Cream Company, and include soaring ceilings, swooney kitchens, chic Scandi furnishings. When they’re up and running again, I’d happily move in. Cheesesteak?

summer soles

April 24, 2020

Just look at this house in Puglia, covered in tomatoes drying in the sun. It was taken by Italo Zannier in the late 70s. Its not just the scarlet fringe against that bright blue sky that struck me, it’s the boy, specifically his barefootedness, that whisked me back to my own childhood. I too used to run around streets just like this, in a bathing suit and no shoes, and I loved the feeling of the cement, sand, stone and dirt against my feet. It’s a weird thing, but I love to see my feet dirty and tanned. It reminds me of childhood.

sugar high

April 1, 2020

As a kid, I loved making meringue. It was the perfect whisk-it-in-a-bowl and bung-it-in-the-oven treat. There was no cream of tartar or zesty lemon juice in my recipe. And there was zero precision or artistry to my method. Barring the odd oven fire, my meringues came out pretty okay, and with little fuss. The perfect meringue is soft and gooey on the inside and crunchy on the outside. It’s my Mum’s go-to pudding: meringues crushed up into pretty glass bowls and topped with thick cream and every kind of berry. This recipe has many more steps than I ever took, and my guess is that her meringues will have a fluffier and more nuanced texture than my sugary messes ever did. But oh, were they fun to make.

very berry

February 25, 2020

Fruit salad was a staple growing up, only I hated fruit, so I’d pick out the strawberries and call it a day. I’m still not keen on fruit salad –– mushy mango, soggy apricots –– but I love the idea of a berry salad. This one has a honey, balsamic dressing, and served with crème fraîche, I can’t think of a nicer way to top off a meal, or start the day, for that matter.

fromage

January 30, 2020

My grandfather hated cheese. I’m not sure if it was the taste or the smell, but cheese, even the mildest ricotta, never entered the home. I have a vivid memory of my grandmother eating a block of Cheddar a week after my grandfather died. It’s kind of amazing the compromises we make for the people we love. She loved cheese. But she loved P.A. more.

supper

January 28, 2020

When in doubt, these winter months, of what to place on the table, may I suggest the simple offering of a soup and a sandwich. There are few things more comforting than a grilled cheese sandwich, and soup, in a little cast iron pot is quite delightful. Here’s a nice list of soup cookbooks, as well as Nigel Slater’s recipe for carrot and tomato soup. As for the sarni, splurge on bakery bread, and a cheddar worth getting gooey over.

lunch hour

January 4, 2020

The Wolseley in London is such a lovely place to lunch. The room is decadent, and so is the food. Just look at this image; oysters, snails and a schnitzel topped with a fried egg, capers and sardines. This is a meal that takes many green salads to recover from. How divine.

Something about Mary

January 1, 2020

A Bloody Mary is such a middle-aged drink. Maybe it’s because I remember my parents and their friends knocking them back over Sunday lunch. Just the thought of tomato juice, vodka and a celery stick used to send my tummy into a twist. I’m still not a fan of tomatoes, so I’m unlikely to drink one in my adult life. But it does seem like a smart start to the New Year. A fruit. A vegetable. Vodka. This one’s even got a rasher of bacon. Salut!

Choco chaud

November 14, 2019

With ice cream season behind us, (not according to my trio, who would eat soft serve and ice lollies in a snowstorm) it’s now all about chocolat chaud. This recipe from Bon Appetit is super simple. The French give their children hot chocolate as a repas, likely served with fresh madelines and dried fruits. Minus the Medjool dates, I think my kids would be in French heaven.

tea cake

October 8, 2019

Maybe it’s the name, Ciambellone, but I love this cake. It looks like a giant doughnut, so simple in its appeal. It’s a tea cake, so serve it as a merenda with a cup of Jasmine, or for breakfast with hot chocolate. My kids, who’s breakfasts and snacks are never so delectable would fall off their stools if this confection landed before them.

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