Food

The Queen’s Tea

September 9, 2015

Iole and I were discussing what the Queen has for afternoon tea. I actually don’t think she drinks fancy tea from Fortnum’s or Farrer’s, I think Tetley’s does quite nicely. And I bet she loves a plain old Digestive. If she’s going to have a sandwich, my guess is that the ham is from a Sainsbury’s packet, and that it’s served between two slices of thinly buttered Hovis bread. I’m sure Iole likes to imagine her eating strawberries and meringues and scones with clotted cream, but I’d say that rarely happens.

by Sir James Gunn, oil on canvas, 1950

by Sir James Gunn, oil on canvas, 1950

 

Pass The Gravy

August 26, 2015

When we were children, my parents had a wonderful Danish cook named Christa. Other than rugbrød, (a sourdough rye bread) which she made from scratch, there was nothing Nordic about her cooking. Instead, she prepared quintessentially English dishes like Shepherd’s Pie and roast beef with all the trimmings. Her Yorkshire puddings were the best I have ever tasted, all soft and pillowy and covered in homemade gravy. And her wafer thin lemony Dover Sole was perfectly crispy along the edges, and served with boiled potatoes smothered in butter and salt. For the lamb, she made her own mint sauce, although we mostly preferred jelly from the jar. Christa’s repertoire was not vast, but whatever she cooked was excellent. At tea time, she prepared fruit cake and coconut squares and shortbread topped with a slither of maraschino cherry. And on birthdays, she made elaborate cakes in the shape of fairy castles and football pitches. I don’t remember Christa smiling much, and she rarely showed us any affection, but she certainly poured love into our food. And to this day, I have yet to eat a traditional British Sunday roast quite like hers.

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Cocktail

July 16, 2015

My all-time favourite drink is the raspberry champagne cocktail at the Helmut Newton bar in Berlin. The lemonade (topped with at least three maraschino cherries) at The Coral Beach Club in Bermuda comes in a close second. These days, I’m tipsy on half a glass of wine, but if I were to make a cocktail, I’d be turning to the Cocktail Gardner for inspiration. Botany-meets-booze, is one way to sum up London-based, Lottie Muir’s work. “My interest in botanical cocktails developed while wild food foraging and generally experimenting with alcohol,” she says on her website. Her pop-up bar, the Midnight Apothecary is legendary, serving up wonderfully unique seasonal cocktails and infusions made with cultivated and foraged herbs and flowers. She runs classes, she’s written a book and Jamie Oliver is her pal. This raspberry & geranium scented cocktail is perfect for a summer’s evening. It may even top Berlin.

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Avocado

July 9, 2015

The first time I ate an avocado was about two years-ago, and since then, not a day has gone by where one hasn’t landed on my plate. When I was much younger, I loathed the thought of them. Something about the texture, maybe. So when a tricolore would arrive at the table at Il Carretto, my friend Luisa’s dad’s Notting Hill restaurant where we’d all hang out as teens, I’d balk at the very sight of it. Back then, even mozzarella wasn’t my thing. (Quel bore). So I’d plough through packets of bread sticks instead, while waiting for my duck à l’orange (fancy, I know) to arrive. Anyhoo, I don’t know what took me so long, but I’m glad we’re friends now. Friends for life.

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Macaron

June 19, 2015

It’s hard to say the word, “macaron” without sounding like a total ponce. You either grunt the “R” and sound all Franco-phony, or stick with the English pronunciation, which sucks the sugar out of it, really. I tend to attempt the French version, only I say it at a whisper, “five macaron, please,” and just pray that the person behind the till is Polish.

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Spring Garden

May 20, 2015

If you love meringue, whipped cream and berries, here’s a cake for you. Serve on gold trimmed plates with glass tumblers of ice cold lemonade. Hello spring!

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Bake Me A Cake

May 4, 2015

Aunt Polixene made really good cakes. It didn’t matter that they came out of a box. It was the love that she poured into them that made them taste good. Like my great aunt, I’m a big fan of the add an egg and water brand of baking. Unless it’s one of my children’s birthdays, on which occasion I’ll pull out all the stops, put on a pinny and make a cake from scratch. What frustrates me though, as they get older, is how different our taste in cakes are. While I picture layers of vanilla sponge smothered in buttermilk frosting and topped with fresh peonies and macarons, they see pirate ships and Disney princesses. With Iole’s birthday coming up, I showed her a Victoria sponge cake with piles of mascarpone and fresh strawberries sandwiched between each layer. She scoffed at that. How about this lovely cake, I suggested. Non. She has her heart set on a candyfloss pink princess Barbie cake. Which is what most little girls want when they’re a smidgen shy of six. It will take me a week, and make her day. Auntie P. would be proud as punch.

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